Roof Trusses: Complete Guide to Types, Costs, and What Every Homeowner Should Know (2026)

A roof truss is a pre-engineered structural framework that supports your roof. Think of it as the skeleton beneath your shingles, metal panels, or tiles. Without trusses (or their older alternative, rafters), your roof would have nothing to hold it up.

Trusses work by distributing weight. When snow, rain, wind, or even just the weight of the roofing materials pushes down on your roof, the truss takes that load and transfers it down through the walls to the foundation. It does this through a system of triangles -- the strongest geometric shape in structural engineering. Every truss, no matter how complex it looks, is really just a series of connected triangles.

A basic roof truss has three main components:

• Top chords -- the two sloped pieces that follow the angle of your roofline. These are what your roof sheathing and shingles attach to.
• Bottom chord -- the horizontal piece running across the bottom. This is your ceiling joist -- the flat part your ceiling drywall attaches to.
• Web members -- the diagonal and vertical pieces inside the triangle that connect the top and bottom chords. These distribute the weight and prevent the truss from collapsing.

All of these pieces are connected at joints using gusset plates -- metal connector plates with teeth that press into the wood. In a factory-built truss, these gusset plates are pressed in with hydraulic machines that apply thousands of pounds of force, creating connections that are stronger and more consistent than hand-nailed joints.

The reason trusses replaced traditional rafter framing in most residential construction is simple: they are faster to install, they can span wider distances without needing load-bearing walls in the middle of your house, and they are engineered for precise load requirements. About 80% of new homes built in the United States today use manufactured trusses rather than stick-framed rafters.

For coastal South Carolina homes, trusses are especially important because they can be specifically engineered to resist wind uplift -- the force that hurricanes use to peel roofs off houses. A properly designed and connected truss system creates a continuous load path from your roof to your foundation, which is the single most important factor in whether your home survives a major storm.

Understanding the parts of a truss helps you communicate with contractors, understand inspection reports, and recognize problems. Here is every component and what it does:

Top Chord

The top chord runs along the slope of the roof from the peak (ridge) down to the outside wall (eave). It determines your roof pitch. The top chord carries the weight of your roofing materials -- sheathing, underlayment, shingles, and any snow or ice load. In most residential trusses, the top chord is made from 2x4 or 2x6 lumber, depending on span length and load requirements.

Bottom Chord

The bottom chord is the horizontal member that runs across the base of the truss. It ties the two sides together and prevents them from spreading apart under load. The bottom chord also serves as your ceiling joist -- it is what your drywall or ceiling material attaches to. In most standard trusses, the bottom chord is flat and level. In scissor trusses (used for vaulted ceilings), the bottom chord angles upward.

Web Members

Web members are the interior pieces that connect the top chord to the bottom chord. They can be vertical, diagonal, or both. Their job is to transfer forces between the top and bottom chords, keeping the truss rigid under load. The arrangement of web members is what gives each truss type its name -- a Fink truss has W-shaped webs, a Howe truss has vertical webs with diagonal members, and so on.

Gusset Plates (Connector Plates)

Gusset plates are galvanized steel plates with small teeth punched out of one side. They are pressed into both sides of every joint in a manufactured truss to hold the lumber together. A single residential truss might have 8-12 gusset plates. These plates are engineered for specific load capacities, and their size and placement are calculated by the truss designer. Damaged or missing gusset plates are a serious structural concern.

King Post

The king post is the vertical web member at the center (peak) of the truss. It connects the apex of the top chords to the center of the bottom chord. In the simplest truss type -- called a king post truss -- this single vertical member is the only web. More complex trusses still have a king post but add additional web members around it.

Bearing Points

Bearing points are where the truss sits on the wall -- specifically on the top plate of the wall framing. These are the points where all of the roof load transfers into the walls and down to the foundation. Proper bearing is critical. The truss must sit squarely on the wall plate, and in hurricane zones, this is where hurricane straps and tie-downs connect the truss to the wall framing to resist uplift forces.

Heel

The heel is the point where the top chord meets the bottom chord at the outside edge of the wall. Heel height matters because it determines how much insulation you can fit above the exterior wall -- a critical detail for energy efficiency. In coastal SC, a raised heel (also called an energy heel) allows for full-depth insulation at the eaves without compressing it.

Overhang (Tail)

The overhang is the portion of the top chord that extends past the exterior wall. This creates the eave -- the part of the roof that sticks out beyond the wall. Overhang length affects water protection, shading, and wind resistance. In hurricane zones, overhangs are typically limited to 12-18 inches because longer overhangs catch more wind uplift. Your overhang is also where your soffit ventilation sits.

Not all trusses are the same. The type you need depends on your span (how wide your building is), your desired roof pitch, whether you want a vaulted ceiling or usable attic space, and your local building codes. Here is a comparison of all 12 common residential truss types, followed by a detailed breakdown of each.

Now let us look at each type in detail so you can understand which one is right for your project.

1. King Post Truss

The king post truss is the simplest and oldest truss design. It has two top chords meeting at a peak, one bottom chord, and a single vertical web (the king post) in the center. That is it -- just five pieces of lumber and some gusset plates.

Because of its simplicity, the king post truss is the least expensive option. It works well for small spans up to about 20 feet, making it ideal for sheds, detached garages, covered porches, and small room additions. It is not suitable for most full-size homes because the span is too limited. If your building is wider than 20 feet, you need a truss with more web members to handle the load.

Best for: Sheds, garages, carports, small additions. Not recommended for: Primary residential structures wider than 20 feet.

2. Queen Post Truss

The queen post truss is the king post's bigger sibling. Instead of one vertical web in the center, it has two vertical posts spaced apart, connected by a horizontal straining beam at the top. This creates a wider central panel and allows the truss to span up to about 30 feet.

Queen post trusses are a good budget option for medium-sized residential buildings. The space between the two vertical posts can also provide a small amount of usable attic area, though not nearly as much as a dedicated attic truss. They are commonly used in older home construction and remain popular for workshops and outbuildings.

Best for: Medium-span residential homes, workshops, outbuildings. Span: 20-30 feet.

3. Fink Truss (W-Truss)

The Fink truss is the most commonly used residential truss in America. If you live in a home built after 1960, there is a strong chance your roof uses Fink trusses. The web members form a W-shape (or sometimes a double-W on longer spans), which distributes loads very efficiently.

The Fink design is popular because it uses relatively short web members, which means less lumber and lower cost. It can span 20 to 40 feet, covering the majority of residential building widths. The tradeoff is that the web members fill the interior of the truss, so there is no usable attic space -- just a crawl space filled with diagonal lumber. This is the standard truss you will see quoted for most new construction projects.

Best for: Most residential homes. Why it dominates: Lowest cost per foot of span, efficient material use, widely available from every truss manufacturer.

4. Howe Truss

The Howe truss uses vertical web members with diagonal members angling outward from the center toward the bearing points. This creates a pattern where the vertical members handle compression forces and the diagonals handle tension. The result is a truss that handles heavy loads well, particularly distributed loads like heavy roofing materials or significant snow accumulation.

Howe trusses are slightly more expensive than Fink trusses because they typically require more lumber, but they offer better load-carrying capacity for the same span. They are a good choice when you need to support heavier roofing materials like concrete tile or when your roof pitch requires additional structural support.

Best for: Heavier roofing materials, wider spans with higher load requirements. Span: 20-40 feet.

5. Pratt Truss

The Pratt truss is essentially the reverse of the Howe -- the diagonal web members angle inward toward the center instead of outward. This makes the diagonals carry compression and the verticals carry tension. The Pratt design is particularly efficient under gravity loads because the longer diagonal members are in tension (which wood handles well) while the shorter vertical members are in compression.

In residential construction, Pratt trusses are less common than Fink trusses but are sometimes specified when the truss engineer determines they are more efficient for a particular span and load combination. They provide excellent performance for spans of 20-40 feet and are widely used in commercial and light industrial buildings.

Best for: Moderate to long spans with standard gravity loads. Common in: Both residential and light commercial construction.

6. Scissor Truss (Vaulted Ceiling)

If you want a vaulted ceiling without stick-framing your roof, the scissor truss is your answer. The bottom chords of a scissor truss slope upward from each bearing point, crossing each other near the center. This creates a cathedral-like interior ceiling that follows the roof slope at a shallower angle -- typically the ceiling pitch is about half the roof pitch.

Scissor trusses cost 15-30% more than standard Fink trusses because they require more lumber and more complex connections. They also reduce insulation space at the peak, which requires careful planning in hot climates like coastal SC. The vaulted ceiling effect is dramatic and adds real value to living spaces, particularly great rooms and master bedrooms. Spans are typically limited to about 35 feet.

Best for: Living rooms, great rooms, and bedrooms where a vaulted ceiling adds value. Important note: The ceiling slope is typically half the roof slope -- a 10/12 roof pitch creates roughly a 5/12 ceiling slope.

7. Attic Truss

The attic truss is designed to create usable living or storage space within the roof structure. It has a rectangular open area in the center (the "attic room") framed by the web members, with the bottom chord serving as the floor and a flat ceiling above. The web members are arranged around this open space, which typically provides a room 8-10 feet wide in a truss spanning 28-36 feet.

Attic trusses are significantly heavier and more expensive than standard trusses -- expect to pay 2-3 times the cost of a comparable Fink truss. The walls below must be engineered to support the additional weight. However, the usable space you gain can be worth thousands of dollars compared to building a full second story. They are popular for bonus rooms, home offices, and future expansion space.

Best for: Homes wanting bonus rooms, home offices, or significant storage within the roofline. Minimum roof pitch: Typically 8/12 or steeper to create adequate headroom.

8. Gambrel Truss (Barn Truss)

The gambrel truss creates the classic barn-shaped roof with two different slopes on each side -- a steep lower slope and a shallower upper slope. This design maximizes the interior volume of the attic space, which is why it has been used in barns and agricultural buildings for centuries. The steep lower walls create nearly vertical interior space, making the upper level much more usable than a standard gable roof.

Modern gambrel trusses are used in residential homes that want the barn aesthetic, storage buildings, and workshops. The dual-slope design does present some challenges in hurricane zones -- the steep lower section catches more wind, and the transition point between the two slopes requires careful waterproofing. If you are building with gambrel trusses in coastal SC, make sure your engineer accounts for the increased wind loading on the steep face.

Best for: Barns, storage buildings, homes wanting maximum upper-floor space. Hurricane zone caution: The steep lower face creates higher wind loads -- requires additional engineering for coastal SC.

9. Hip Truss

Hip trusses create a hip roof -- where all four sides slope downward from a central ridge. A hip roof system actually uses several different truss types working together: standard trusses in the center, decreasing-height "step-down" trusses as you approach the hip end, and specialized hip girder trusses that run diagonally from the ridge to the corners.

For coastal South Carolina, hip trusses are the gold standard for wind resistance. A hip roof has no flat gable end to catch the wind -- all four sides are sloped, which allows wind to flow over the roof rather than push against it. Studies have shown that hip roofs withstand hurricane winds 20-40% better than gable roofs. The IBHS FORTIFIED program specifically recommends hip roofs for their superior wind resistance, and you may qualify for insurance discounts with a hip roof configuration.

Best for: Hurricane zones, homes wanting maximum wind resistance, traditional architectural styles. Cost premium: 15-25% more than a simple gable roof due to the complexity of the framing system.

10. Mono Truss (Lean-To)

The mono truss has a single slope -- one end is higher than the other. It is essentially half of a standard gable truss. Mono trusses are used for building additions, covered porches and patios, lean-to structures attached to an existing building, and modern architectural designs that feature single-slope rooflines.

Mono trusses are among the least expensive options because of their simplicity. They work well for spans up to about 24 feet. The single slope makes water drainage straightforward (everything flows one direction), but it does mean one wall is significantly taller than the other. In coastal construction, mono trusses need careful attachment at the high end to resist uplift forces at the connection point.

Best for: Room additions, covered porches, carports, modern shed-style homes. Drainage advantage: Simple, single-direction water flow.

11. Cathedral Truss

The cathedral truss creates a high, open ceiling that follows the full pitch of the roof all the way to the peak. Unlike the scissor truss (which has a shallower ceiling pitch), the cathedral truss can create a ceiling that matches the roof slope exactly, producing dramatic interior heights. Some cathedral trusses use parallel top and bottom chords with a space between them for insulation and ventilation.

Cathedral trusses are among the most expensive residential truss options because they require larger lumber, more complex web configurations, and often need to accommodate insulation within the truss cavity. They are typically used in great rooms, churches, and high-end custom homes where ceiling drama is a priority. Insulation and ventilation must be carefully detailed -- see our roof ventilation guide for more on this.

Best for: High-end great rooms, churches, spaces where maximum ceiling height is desired. Challenge: Insulation and ventilation require careful engineering.

12. Flat Truss

Flat trusses have parallel top and bottom chords with no slope (or a very slight slope of 1/4 inch per foot for drainage). They are used for flat roofs, floor systems, and ceiling support in multi-story buildings. In residential construction, flat trusses are most commonly used for creating a flat deck area, supporting a porch ceiling, or in modern architectural designs that call for a flat roofline.

Flat trusses can span up to 40 feet and are cost-effective for their span capability. The main consideration is drainage -- flat roofs need proper drainage design to prevent water ponding. For more on flat roof systems, see our complete guide to flat roof layers.

Best for: Modern architecture, commercial buildings, rooftop decks, porch ceilings. Critical detail: Must include proper drainage slope (minimum 1/4 inch per foot).

This is one of the most common questions homeowners ask during a build or major renovation. Both trusses and rafters hold up your roof, but they do it differently, cost different amounts, and each has situations where it wins.

When Trusses Win

Trusses are the better choice for most new residential construction. They cost less, install faster, span farther, and come with engineered load calculations. For coastal South Carolina, the engineering aspect is particularly important -- every truss arrives with a stamped engineering plan that specifies exactly how it was designed to handle your specific wind loads, dead loads, and live loads. This gives inspectors a clear reference and gives you documented proof of structural integrity.

When Rafters Win

Rafters are the better choice in specific situations: when you want a fully usable attic space without the expense of attic trusses, when you are doing renovation work on an existing home that already uses rafters, when the roof design is complex with many valleys and hips that would require custom truss configurations, or when site access prevents crane delivery (trusses are large and require a crane to set in place -- not possible on all job sites).

The Cost Difference

On a typical 2,000-square-foot home, choosing trusses over rafters saves approximately $3,000-$7,000 in combined material and labor costs. The labor savings alone are significant -- a truss crew can set and brace an entire roof in one day, while a rafter crew may take a full week to cut, set, and sheath the same roof. For a deeper dive into overall roof replacement costs, see our 2026 roof replacement cost guide.

Most residential roof trusses are made from lumber (typically Southern Yellow Pine or Douglas Fir). But steel trusses are available and have specific advantages in certain situations. Here is how they compare.

Wood Trusses: The Standard Residential Choice

Wood trusses dominate residential construction for good reason: they are affordable, readily available, easy for crews to handle, and perform well for typical residential spans. In coastal SC, wood trusses are the standard because they are not affected by salt spray corrosion -- a significant advantage over unprotected steel. Modern wood trusses are pressure-treated or built with naturally rot-resistant species, and they can be engineered to meet any wind load requirement in the South Carolina building code.

Steel Trusses: When They Make Sense

Steel trusses are overkill for most homes but make sense in specific situations: commercial buildings requiring long clear spans (warehouses, churches, event spaces), areas with extreme termite pressure where wood protection is unreliable, projects requiring non-combustible construction for fire code compliance, and modern architectural designs that expose the trusses as a design element. If you are using steel trusses anywhere near the coast, they must be hot-dip galvanized or coated with a marine-grade finish -- bare or lightly galvanized steel will corrode aggressively in salt air environments.

Coastal SC Recommendation

For residential construction in the Myrtle Beach area, wood trusses remain the best choice. They cost less, they are unaffected by salt corrosion, they meet all hurricane code requirements when properly engineered and connected, and every local truss manufacturer and framing crew is experienced with them. Steel trusses only make sense here for commercial projects or very long clear-span applications.

Truss costs vary based on type, span, pitch, load requirements, and your local lumber market. Here are realistic 2026 prices based on current market conditions in the Southeast United States.

Cost Per Truss by Type

Prices reflect 2026 Southeast US lumber market pricing. Actual costs vary by region, lumber market conditions, and specific engineering requirements. Coastal SC wind-load engineering may add 5-15% to base prices.

Total Project Cost by Home Size

A complete truss package includes all the trusses plus delivery and crane placement. Here is what a full truss package costs for common home sizes (using standard Fink trusses at 24-inch spacing):

Hidden Costs to Budget For

The truss price tag is not the whole story. Budget for these additional costs that most homeowners do not expect:

• Crane rental: $500-$1,500 per day. Required for every truss installation -- these are too heavy and awkward to lift by hand on most homes.
• Engineering/design fee: $200-$800 for custom truss design. Standard designs may be included in the truss price, but complex rooflines or unusual load requirements need custom engineering.
• Building permits: $150-$500 in Horry County. Required for new construction and most structural work.
• Hurricane connectors: $3-$8 per connection point for hurricane straps and tie-downs. With 30+ trusses requiring connectors at both bearing points, this adds $180-$500+ to the project.
• Temporary bracing: $200-$600 in lumber for the temporary bracing needed during installation before the sheathing is applied.
• Waste/cut-offs: 5-10% waste factor on all associated lumber and hardware.

Factors That Increase Truss Cost

• Longer spans -- every additional foot of span increases lumber requirements and cost
• Steeper pitch -- higher pitches require longer top chords and more material
• Higher wind loads -- coastal SC wind-load requirements often mean upgraded lumber (2x6 vs 2x4 chords) and more gusset plates
• Special configurations -- attic, gambrel, scissor, and cathedral trusses cost significantly more than standard Fink trusses
• Lumber market conditions -- lumber prices fluctuate significantly; a volatile market can add 15-30% to truss costs
• Rush orders -- standard lead time is 1-3 weeks; rush orders may add 20-40% premium

How far can a truss span? It depends on the truss type, the roof pitch, the lumber grade, the load requirements, and the spacing between trusses. This reference chart covers common residential spans and the truss types typically used for each. For specific engineering, always consult a structural engineer or licensed truss manufacturer -- this chart is for general planning purposes.

What Determines Maximum Span?

Several factors determine how far a truss can span:

• Lumber grade and species -- higher-grade lumber (No. 1 Southern Yellow Pine) can span farther than lower grades. Species matters too -- Southern Yellow Pine and Douglas Fir are the strongest common framing species.
• Chord dimensions -- a 2x6 top chord can span farther than a 2x4 under the same load conditions.
• Roof pitch -- steeper pitches generally allow slightly longer spans because the load distribution improves.
• Load requirements -- heavier roofing materials (concrete tile vs. asphalt shingles) and higher wind loads reduce maximum span. Coastal SC wind loads of 130+ mph can reduce maximum span by 10-15% compared to inland calculations.
• Truss spacing -- trusses at 16 inches on center can span farther than trusses at 24 inches on center because each truss carries less load.
• Web configuration -- more web members generally allow longer spans by distributing forces more efficiently.

For roof pitch details and how pitch affects your truss selection, see our roof slope and pitch guide.

You do not design your own roof trusses. But understanding the process helps you work better with your builder and ensures you get the right trusses for your project. Here is how it works from start to finish.

Step 1: Your Builder Sends Plans to the Truss Manufacturer

Your general contractor or framing contractor sends your architectural plans (including roof layout, spans, pitches, and any special requirements like vaulted ceilings or attic rooms) to a truss manufacturer. In the Myrtle Beach area, there are several truss plants within 50-100 miles that serve residential construction.

Step 2: Engineering Software Designs Each Truss

The truss manufacturer uses specialized software (like MiTek, Alpine, or Eagle) to design each individual truss. The software takes your roof geometry and applies all applicable loads: dead load (weight of roofing materials), live load (people, maintenance equipment), wind load (critical in coastal SC -- your design wind speed is based on your location within the wind zone map), and any special loads like solar panels or mechanical equipment.

The software calculates the forces in every member and connection, sizes the lumber, and specifies the gusset plates needed at each joint. It then generates a stamped engineering drawing for each truss in the package.

Step 3: A Licensed Engineer Reviews and Stamps the Plans

A licensed Professional Engineer (PE) reviews the design output and stamps the truss drawings. This stamp means the engineer takes professional responsibility for the design meeting all applicable building codes, including the International Residential Code (IRC) and any local amendments (Horry County, SC has specific wind load requirements that may exceed the base code). These stamped drawings are what the building inspector reviews during the framing inspection.

Step 4: Factory Manufacturing

Trusses are built in a factory, not on-site. Lumber is cut to precise lengths, laid out on a jig table, and gusset plates are hydraulically pressed into every joint. Factory manufacturing produces consistently stronger connections than field-built alternatives because the hydraulic press applies uniform pressure across every tooth of every gusset plate -- something impossible to achieve with hand nailing.

Step 5: Delivery and Installation

Finished trusses are delivered on a flatbed truck and set in place with a crane. The entire truss package for a typical home can be set in one day. Each truss is positioned on the wall plates, temporarily braced, and then permanently attached using the specified hardware (including hurricane connectors in wind zones).

When Custom Design Is Needed

Standard truss designs cover the vast majority of residential projects. You need custom engineering when: your roof has unusual geometry (multiple intersecting hip ridges, curved sections), your home requires exceptionally long clear spans (over 40 feet), you are retrofitting trusses into an existing structure with non-standard bearing conditions, or your project has unusual load requirements (green roof, rooftop pool, heavy mechanical equipment). Custom engineering adds $300-$800 to the truss design cost but is essential for these situations.

This is the section that no other roof truss guide on the internet covers -- and it is the most important section for anyone living on the South Carolina coast. Your truss system is the primary structural element that determines whether your roof stays on your house during a hurricane. The trusses themselves are strong enough. The failure point is almost always the connections -- where the truss meets the wall, where the wall meets the foundation. Hurricane-force winds do not blow roofs apart. They lift them off.

Why Coastal Homes Need Special Truss Attention

A Category 3 hurricane generates wind speeds of 111-129 mph. At these speeds, the uplift force on a typical residential roof can exceed 30-50 pounds per square foot. On a 2,000-square-foot roof, that is 60,000 to 100,000 pounds of lifting force trying to peel your roof off like a lid. If the connection between your trusses and your walls is just toenails (nails driven at an angle through the truss into the wall plate), those connections will fail. Toenails provide about 100-200 pounds of uplift resistance per connection. Hurricane straps provide 500-1,500+ pounds.

Myrtle Beach sits in a wind zone where the design wind speed for residential construction is 130-140 mph (depending on your exact location and risk category). This means every structural connection in your roof must be engineered to withstand those forces -- not just survive them, but maintain structural integrity throughout the storm event.

Hurricane Tie-Downs and Straps: What SC Code Requires

South Carolina building code (based on the International Residential Code with local amendments) requires engineered connectors at every truss-to-wall connection in wind zones with design speeds above 115 mph -- which includes all of Horry County and the Grand Strand area. Here is what that means in practice:

• Hurricane straps (H-clips or truss ties) -- galvanized metal connectors that wrap over or around the truss and nail into the wall plate. The most common are Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A, H10, and H1 connectors.
• Minimum uplift capacity: Connectors must resist a minimum of 500 pounds of uplift at each truss bearing point. In areas closer to the coast (within a few miles of the ocean), the requirement may be higher based on the specific wind load calculation.
• Continuous load path: The connection from the roof to the foundation must be continuous. Truss-to-wall-plate, wall-plate-to-stud, stud-to-bottom-plate, bottom-plate-to-foundation -- every connection in this chain must be engineered. A hurricane strap on your truss is useless if the wall below is not similarly anchored.
• Proper fastening: Hurricane straps must be installed with the specific fasteners called out by the manufacturer -- typically 10d x 1.5-inch nails or specific structural screws. Using the wrong fasteners can reduce capacity by 50% or more.

Wind Load Zones and What They Mean

South Carolina uses the ASCE 7 wind speed map to determine design wind loads. Here is how it applies to the Grand Strand area:

Horry County Building Code Specifics for Trusses

Horry County enforces the International Residential Code (IRC) with local amendments that address our coastal wind environment. Key requirements for roof trusses include:

• Engineered truss drawings required -- stamped by a licensed PE for every new construction and major renovation project
• Framing inspection required -- the building inspector will check every hurricane strap, connector, and bracing element before the roof can be sheathed
• Sealed roof deck -- while not a truss requirement per se, the sheathing on your trusses must be fastened on a specific nailing schedule (typically 6 inches on edges, 12 inches in the field) for high-wind zones, and many projects in the wind-borne debris zone require a sealed roof deck with peel-and-stick underlayment
• Gable end bracing -- gable end walls (the triangular wall under the roof at each end of a gable roof) must be braced to resist lateral wind forces. This is a common failure point in hurricanes and is specifically inspected.

How to Tell If Your Trusses Meet Current Code

If your home was built before 2003 (when South Carolina adopted the IRC), your truss connections may not meet current wind-load standards. Here is how to check:

• Look in your attic: Can you see metal hurricane straps or clips at the points where trusses sit on the walls? If you see only nails (toenails) with no metal connectors, your connections are below current code.
• Check for gusset plate integrity: Are the metal connector plates at each truss joint fully embedded? If you see plates that are popped out, bent, or have teeth that are not fully engaged in the wood, the truss has been compromised.
• Look for bracing: Do you see continuous lateral bracing running perpendicular to the trusses along the bottom chords and web members? Proper bracing prevents trusses from buckling sideways.
• Get a professional inspection: The most reliable option. A qualified roofing contractor or structural engineer can assess your entire truss system and connections in about an hour. For more on what inspectors look for, see our complete roof inspection guide.

Hip Roof vs. Gable Roof: Wind Resistance Comparison

Your roof shape -- which is determined by your truss type -- has a massive impact on hurricane performance. Research from the Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety (IBHS) shows that hip roofs outperform gable roofs by 20-40% in hurricane conditions. This is because:

• Hip roofs have no flat gable-end walls to catch wind
• All four sides are sloped, allowing wind to flow over the roof
• The aerodynamic shape creates less uplift than a gable roof
• There is no large, unsupported gable-end wall that can collapse inward

If you are building new or doing a complete re-roof in a hurricane zone, seriously consider a hip roof design. The additional cost (15-25% more for the truss package) can be offset by insurance discounts and, more importantly, by keeping your roof on your house during the next storm.

Whether you are building a new home or watching your contractor work, here is what happens during truss installation from start to finish.

Step 1: Site Preparation (Day Before)

Before the trusses arrive, the walls must be framed, plumbed (made perfectly vertical), straightened, and braced. The top plates of all bearing walls must be level and at the correct height. Any HVAC, plumbing, or electrical that needs to run through the truss area should be planned for in advance -- cutting into trusses after installation is not allowed without engineer approval.

Step 2: Delivery and Staging

Trusses arrive on a flatbed truck, typically early in the morning to allow a full day of work. The delivery driver (or crane operator) positions the bundles where they can be reached by the crane. Most residential truss packages arrive in one load, though larger homes may require two. Each truss is labeled with a number that corresponds to its position on the truss layout plan.

Step 3: Crane Setting

A crane lifts each truss from the delivery stack and swings it into position on the walls. One crew member guides the truss from below while two or three crew members on the walls receive it, position it on the layout marks, and temporarily brace it. The first truss is the most critical -- it must be perfectly plumb and braced because every subsequent truss is aligned to it. An experienced crew can set one truss every 5-10 minutes, meaning a 30-truss package takes about 3-5 hours to set.

Step 4: Temporary Bracing

As each truss is set, it is temporarily braced with diagonal lumber to keep it upright and at the correct spacing (typically 24 inches on center, or 16 inches in some load conditions). Continuous lateral bracing is also installed along the top chords and bottom chords to prevent the trusses from domino-falling during construction. This temporary bracing stays in place until the roof sheathing is installed, which provides permanent lateral bracing.

Step 5: Permanent Connections

After all trusses are set and braced, the crew installs the permanent connections. In coastal SC, this means installing hurricane straps or tie-down connectors at every bearing point. Each connector is nailed with the specific fasteners required by the manufacturer -- the inspector will check this. Permanent lateral bracing (typically 2x4 boards running perpendicular to the trusses along the web members) is also installed per the truss engineer's bracing plan.

Step 6: Sheathing

Once the trusses are permanently connected and braced, the roof sheathing (typically 7/16-inch or 1/2-inch OSB or plywood) is installed. In coastal SC high-wind zones, the sheathing nailing pattern is specified by code -- typically 6 inches on center at panel edges and 12 inches in the field. This sheathing is what provides the final lateral bracing for the truss system and creates the surface for your roofing materials.

Timeline

DIY vs. Professional Installation

To be direct: do not attempt to install roof trusses yourself. This is not a DIY project. Trusses are heavy (a 30-foot Fink truss weighs 100-150 pounds), they must be lifted by crane, and incorrect installation can result in catastrophic structural failure. Beyond safety, most building departments require a licensed contractor for structural work, and your homeowner's insurance will not cover a collapse caused by improper self-installation. Truss installation requires a trained framing crew with crane access -- hire professionals.

Permits and Inspections

In Horry County and throughout coastal SC, building permits are required for any new roof framing or structural modification. The framing inspection occurs after trusses are set, braced, connected, and sheathed -- but before roofing materials are applied. The inspector will verify: truss spacing matches the engineered plans, hurricane connectors are installed at every bearing point with the correct fasteners, bracing matches the truss manufacturer's requirements, sheathing nailing meets the wind zone schedule, and gable-end walls are properly braced.

Truss damage is not always obvious from inside your home. But there are warning signs that indicate your trusses may be compromised. Catching these early can prevent catastrophic failure -- especially important in hurricane season.

Visual Warning Signs

• Sagging or dipping roofline: If your ridge (the peak of your roof) is no longer straight when viewed from the street, or if sections of the roof appear to sag between supports, this indicates a structural problem. Minor sagging can indicate overloading or weakened members. Significant sagging is an emergency.
• Cracked or split truss members: Visible cracks in the wood of top chords, bottom chords, or web members -- especially near gusset plate connections. Splits running along the grain are particularly concerning.
• Separated or popped gusset plates: If the metal connector plates at truss joints are lifting away from the wood, have teeth that are no longer embedded, or have shifted position, the truss has been compromised. This often happens during high-wind events when the truss flexes beyond its design capacity.
• Water stains or rot: Brown stains, soft wood, or visible rot on truss members -- especially at the bearing points near the eaves where leaks are most common. Rotted wood has drastically reduced structural capacity.
• Bowed or buckled members: Web members or chords that are visibly bowed, bent sideways, or twisted. This can indicate excessive loading or inadequate bracing.
• Ceiling cracks following truss lines: Cracks in your drywall ceiling that follow the direction of the trusses (typically perpendicular to the ridge) can indicate truss movement -- a condition called "truss uplift" caused by moisture and temperature differences between the attic and living space.

When to Call a Roofer vs. a Structural Engineer

Call a roofer first if you notice: minor sagging, missing hurricane straps that need to be added, superficial damage to truss members, or need a general truss condition assessment. A qualified roofing contractor can evaluate most truss conditions and either handle repairs or recommend an engineer.

Call a structural engineer if you see: significant sagging (more than 1 inch per 10 feet of span), cracked or split load-bearing members (top or bottom chords), multiple gusset plates that have separated, evidence of termite damage affecting structural members, or if someone has cut into truss members (never cut a truss without engineer approval). A structural engineer can perform load calculations, determine the extent of damage, and design repairs that maintain the truss's full load capacity.

Post-Storm Truss Assessment

After any significant storm (tropical storm or hurricane), have your trusses inspected even if you do not see visible roof damage from the outside. High winds can cause internal damage to trusses and connections that is not visible from the exterior. Look for: shifted gusset plates, new cracks in truss members, loosened hurricane straps, and any signs of movement at the bearing points. For a complete post-storm checklist, see our storm damage identification guide.

Can Damaged Trusses Be Repaired?

Yes, in many cases. Minor damage (a single cracked web member, a loose gusset plate, minor rot at a bearing point) can often be repaired by sistering new lumber alongside the damaged member, re-pressing or replacing gusset plates, or treating and reinforcing rotted areas. However, all truss repairs should be designed or approved by a structural engineer -- trusses are engineered systems, and modifying one part affects the forces in every other part. Never attempt to repair a truss yourself or allow a contractor to "wing it" without engineering input.

In hurricane-prone areas like coastal South Carolina, your roof truss system directly affects your homeowner's insurance premiums, your eligibility for discounts, and how claims are handled after a storm. Here is what you need to know.

How Truss Type Affects Your Premiums

Insurance companies in coastal SC evaluate your roof's wind resistance as a major factor in setting premiums. Two features of your truss system matter most:

• Roof shape (hip vs. gable): Hip roofs (created by hip truss systems) typically qualify for lower premiums because they perform better in high winds. The discount varies by insurer but can be 5-15% on the wind portion of your premium.
• Roof-to-wall connections: Insurance inspectors check how your trusses are attached to your walls. Homes with hurricane straps or clips receive significantly better rates than homes with toenail-only connections. In some cases, upgrading from toenails to hurricane straps can reduce your wind premium by 10-30%.

What Insurance Inspectors Look For

When an insurance inspector or wind mitigation inspector evaluates your home, they will specifically examine your truss connections and roof shape. They are looking for:

• Connection type: Toenails, clips, single wraps, or double wraps. Double wraps (connectors that wrap fully around the truss) receive the best insurance credit.
• Roof geometry: Hip, gable, or combination. Hip roofs score better.
• Roof deck attachment: How the sheathing is nailed to the trusses. 8d nails at 6"/12" spacing score better than standard attachment.
• Secondary water resistance: Whether a sealed roof deck (peel-and-stick underlayment) is installed on top of the truss sheathing.

Upgrade Options That Pay for Themselves

If your home has weak truss connections, upgrading can generate insurance savings that pay back the retrofit cost in 3-7 years. Common upgrades include:

• Adding hurricane straps: $5-$15 per truss connection, with 50-80 connections in a typical home. Total cost: $400-$1,200 in materials plus labor. Insurance savings: potentially $300-$800+ per year.
• FORTIFIED Roof certification: The IBHS FORTIFIED program certifies that your entire roof system (including truss connections, sheathing, and roofing) meets above-code standards. FORTIFIED certification can unlock the largest insurance discounts available, and the SC Safe Home Grant can help cover the cost.

For a comprehensive look at how your roof condition affects insurance, see our roof inspection guide and roof lifespan guide.