Metal Roof Installation: Complete Step-by-Step Guide (2025)
Shocking Industry Truth
Considering a metal roof installation for your home? Metal roofing has surged in popularity, now representing over 17% of the residential roofing market—up from just 4% a decade ago. And for good reason: metal roofs last 40-70 years, withstand 140+ mph winds, and can reduce cooling costs by 25%.
But metal roof installation is fundamentally different from installing asphalt shingles. The process requires specialized tools, different fastening techniques, and careful attention to thermal expansion. Done wrong, you'll face leaks, oil canning, and premature failure.
This comprehensive guide covers everything about metal roof installation: the step-by-step process, costs, DIY vs professional considerations, tools required, common mistakes, and what to expect on installation day. Whether you're a homeowner planning a project or researching what to expect, this guide will give you the knowledge you need.
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Types of Metal Roofing Systems
Before diving into installation, it's essential to understand the main types of metal roofing systems. Each has different installation requirements:
Standing Seam Metal Roofing
Standing seam is the premium metal roofing option, featuring raised seams that connect panels and hide fasteners.
- Appearance: Clean, modern lines with vertical seams
- Fasteners: Concealed (no exposed screws)
- Installation: Most complex, requires specialized tools
- Cost: $12-$18 per square foot installed
- Best for: Modern homes, high-end applications, coastal areas
- Lifespan: 50-70 years with proper installation
Corrugated Metal Roofing
Classic wavy or ribbed panels, popular for agricultural buildings and now trendy for modern residential applications.
- Appearance: Wavy or ribbed pattern, industrial aesthetic
- Fasteners: Exposed (visible screws)
- Installation: Simplest metal roofing to install
- Cost: $6-$12 per square foot installed
- Best for: Sheds, barns, modern farmhouse styles, budget-conscious projects
- Lifespan: 40-60 years
Metal Shingles
Metal panels stamped to resemble traditional roofing materials like shingles, slate, or wood shake.
- Appearance: Mimics asphalt, slate, or wood shake
- Fasteners: Concealed interlocking system
- Installation: Moderate complexity
- Cost: $8-$14 per square foot installed
- Best for: HOA-restricted areas, traditional-style homes
- Lifespan: 40-60 years
R-Panel / PBR Panel
Commercial-grade panels with trapezoidal ribs, commonly used on commercial buildings but gaining residential popularity.
- Appearance: Clean lines with trapezoidal ridges
- Fasteners: Exposed through-fastened
- Installation: Relatively straightforward
- Cost: $7-$12 per square foot installed
- Best for: Commercial buildings, metal buildings, cost-effective residential
- Lifespan: 40-50 years
Metal Roofing Materials: Which Metal Is Best?
Metal roofing comes in several material options, each with different properties, lifespans, and price points:
| Material | Lifespan | Cost/Sq Ft | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Galvanized Steel | 40-60 years | $4-$8 | Budget-friendly, inland areas |
| Galvalume Steel | 50-60 years | $5-$10 | Better corrosion resistance |
| Aluminum | 50-70 years | $8-$14 | Coastal areas (salt-resistant) |
| Copper | 70-100+ years | $20-$40 | Historic homes, premium applications |
| Zinc | 80-100 years | $15-$25 | Self-healing, architectural |
Coastal South Carolina Recommendation
For Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand, we strongly recommend aluminum or Galvalume steel with PVDF coating. Standard galvanized steel can corrode within 10-15 years due to salt air exposure. The additional cost of aluminum pays for itself in longevity and reduced maintenance.
Paint/Coating Systems
The coating system protects the metal and determines color longevity:
- PVDF (Kynar 500/Hylar 5000): Premium coating, 30-40 year color warranty, best UV and chalk resistance
- SMP (Silicone-Modified Polyester): Mid-range, 20-25 year warranty, good value
- Polyester: Budget option, 10-15 year warranty, fades faster
Pro Tip: Don't Skimp on Coating
The coating system affects appearance more than the metal itself. A steel roof with PVDF coating will look better after 30 years than aluminum with polyester coating. For South Carolina's intense UV exposure, PVDF is worth the investment.
Preparation Before Metal Roof Installation
Proper preparation is critical for a successful metal roof installation. Here's what needs to happen before the first panel goes up:
Step 1: Roof Deck Inspection and Repair
The roof deck (typically plywood or OSB sheathing) must be:
- Structurally sound: No rot, delamination, or soft spots
- Flat: Warped or uneven areas will telegraph through metal panels
- Properly nailed: Loose sheathing must be resecured
- Correct thickness: Minimum 7/16" OSB or 15/32" plywood recommended
Critical: Never Install Over Damage
Metal roofing will not hide deck problems—it will highlight them. Any waviness, dips, or imperfections in the deck will be visible in the finished roof. Replace damaged decking before installation.
Step 2: Remove Existing Roofing (If Applicable)
Metal roofing can sometimes be installed over existing shingles, but removal is often better:
When You Can Install Over Shingles:
- Only one existing layer of shingles
- Shingles are relatively flat (no curling)
- No underlying deck damage
- Local codes permit it
- Using batten/purlin system
When You Must Remove:
- Multiple shingle layers
- Any signs of deck damage
- Curled or buckled shingles
- Installing standing seam
- Warranty requirements
Step 3: Install Underlayment
Underlayment provides a secondary water barrier and prevents direct metal-to-deck contact:
- Synthetic underlayment: Required for most metal roof installations (30# felt is NOT recommended)
- High-temp synthetic: For metal roofing, use underlayment rated for 240°F+ (metal gets hot)
- Ice & water shield: Required at eaves, valleys, and penetrations in cold climates
- Slip sheet: Some metal roofs require a slip sheet between underlayment and metal
Underlayment Installation Tips
- • Overlap seams minimum 4" horizontally, 6" vertically
- • Use cap nails, not staples (metal roof movement can pull through staples)
- • Work from bottom up, parallel to eaves
- • Extend underlayment over drip edge, NOT under
Step 4: Install Drip Edge and Starter Trim
Metal-specific trim components go on before panels:
- Eave trim/drip edge: Channels water into gutters
- Gable trim/rake edge: Finishes roof edges
- Valley flashing: Pre-formed or fabricated for valley areas
- Ridge cap base: Some systems require pre-installed components
Tools and Materials Needed
Metal roof installation requires specialized tools beyond standard roofing equipment. Here's what you'll need:
Essential Tools
Cutting Tools
- Electric metal shears (nibblers)
- Aviation snips (left, right, straight)
- Circular saw with metal-cutting blade
- Angle grinder (use sparingly)
- Turbo shear attachment for drill
Fastening Tools
- Impact driver (NOT impact wrench)
- Screw gun with depth adjustment
- Pop rivet gun
- Seam crimper/seamer (standing seam)
- Hand seamers/tongs
Measuring & Layout
- Tape measure (25'+ recommended)
- Chalk line
- Speed square
- Torpedo level
- Laser level (helpful but optional)
Safety Equipment
- Fall protection (harness, ropes, anchors)
- Cut-resistant gloves
- Safety glasses with side shields
- Hearing protection
- Knee pads
- Non-slip footwear
Never Use These to Cut Metal Roofing:
- Abrasive chop saws: Throw hot sparks that burn the coating and cause rust spots
- Angle grinders (excessive use): Same problem—sparks damage coating for 6"+ around cuts
- Circular saws with abrasive blades: Use metal-cutting blades only, and run saw backwards
Materials Checklist
- Metal panels: Order 10-15% extra for cuts and waste
- Trim pieces: Eave, gable, ridge, transition, valley
- Fasteners: Panel screws, trim screws, pop rivets
- Sealant: Use manufacturer-approved sealant only
- Underlayment: High-temp synthetic (30# felt NOT recommended)
- Butyl tape: For sealing trim to panels
- Pipe boots: Sized for plumbing vents
- Touch-up paint: Matches panel color for scratches
Order All Materials at Once
Metal panels are manufactured in batches with slight color variations. Ordering all panels at once ensures color consistency. If you run short, panels from a different batch may not match.
Step-by-Step Metal Roof Installation Process
With preparation complete, here's the actual panel installation process:
Step 1: Establish Starting Point
Metal roofing installation starts at one end of the roof and works across:
- Wind direction: Start on the side opposite prevailing winds so overlaps face away from wind
- Square check: Measure diagonals to ensure roof is square—adjust if necessary
- Reference line: Snap a chalk line parallel to the eave, set back 1-2" for overhang
- Panel orientation: First panel overlapping edge faces away from starting corner
Step 2: Install First Panel
- Position panel at starting corner, aligning with reference line
- Ensure proper overhang at eave (typically 1-2" past drip edge)
- Check that panel is perfectly perpendicular to eave—this is critical
- Install first fasteners at center of panel, working outward
- For exposed fastener panels, drive screws into flat areas (not ribs)
- Apply consistent pressure—fastener should be snug, not over-driven
The #1 Mistake: First Panel Not Square
If the first panel isn't perfectly perpendicular to the eave, every subsequent panel will compound the error. By the time you reach the other end of the roof, you could be inches off. Take extra time to get the first panel perfect.
Step 3: Continue Panel Installation
Work across the roof, overlapping panels:
- Overlap direction: Each panel overlaps the previous one (usually one rib)
- Seam sealing: Apply sealant in overlapping seam per manufacturer instructions
- Alignment check: Every 3-4 panels, verify alignment with eave
- Fastener pattern: Follow manufacturer's recommended spacing (typically 12-24" on center)
- Thermal expansion: Don't over-drive fasteners—allow slight panel movement
Step 4: Cut Final Panels to Fit
The last panel in each row usually needs cutting:
- Measure carefully—account for trim overlap
- Use electric shears or nibblers for clean cuts
- File any sharp edges
- Apply touch-up paint to cut edges to prevent rust
Step 5: Install Flashing and Transitions
Flashing is critical for waterproofing transitions:
Sidewall Flashing
Where roof meets vertical wall, install step flashing or continuous flashing extending 4"+ up wall and under siding.
Headwall Flashing
Where roof terminates at upper wall, install kick-out flashing and counter-flashing under siding.
Pipe Boots
Use metal or high-quality EPDM pipe boots sized for each penetration. Seal with manufacturer-approved sealant.
Valley Installation
Open valleys with pre-formed valley flashing, or closed valleys with panels trimmed to meet at centerline.
Step 6: Install Ridge Cap
Ridge cap is the final step, covering the roof peak:
- Install ridge vent if required for ventilation
- Apply closure strips or foam sealant at panel-to-ridge transition
- Install ridge cap starting opposite prevailing wind
- Overlap ridge cap sections 6"+ with sealant in overlaps
- Fasten through caps into structural framing when possible
Standing Seam: Special Installation Considerations
Standing seam metal roofing has a different installation process than exposed-fastener panels. Here's what's unique:
Clip Attachment System
Standing seam panels attach via clips, not screws through the panel:
- Fixed clips: Used at eaves and ridge—lock panel in place
- Floating clips: Used mid-panel—allow thermal expansion/contraction
- Clip spacing: Typically 12-24" on center per manufacturer specs
- Fasteners: Clips attach to deck with screws—panels never get screwed
Why Clips Matter
A 20' metal panel can expand/contract 1/4" or more with temperature changes. Fixed fasteners would eventually wallow out the holes and leak. The clip system allows panels to "float" while remaining weathertight.
Seaming Process
Standing seam panels connect via interlocking seams that get crimped together:
Mechanical Seam (Field-Locked)
Seams are crimped with electric or hand seamers on-site. Options include single-lock (90°) or double-lock (180°) seams. Double-lock provides superior weather resistance but requires a mechanical seamer.
Snap-Lock Seam
Panels snap together without mechanical seaming—easier but less weather-resistant. Not recommended for low-slope applications or coastal areas.
Specialized Equipment Required
- Electric seamer: For field-locked seams (costs $2,000-$6,000)
- Hand seamers: For detail work around penetrations and edges
- Panel notcher: For cutting panel ends
- Hem tool: For creating panel end hems
- Portable panel former: Some contractors form panels on-site
Standing Seam: Not a DIY Project
Standing seam installation requires specialized equipment costing $5,000-$10,000 and significant training. Even experienced general contractors hire standing seam specialists. This is not a weekend DIY project.
Common Metal Roof Installation Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
Metal roofing is unforgiving of mistakes. Here are the most common errors and how to prevent them:
Mistake #1: Over-Driving Fasteners
The Problem: Compressing the washer too much creates a divot that pools water and eventually leaks. Over time, thermal cycling enlarges the hole.
The Fix: Fasteners should be snug—washer compressed but not mushrooming out. Use a screw gun with depth stop, not an impact driver set to full power.
Mistake #2: Under-Driving Fasteners
The Problem: Loose fasteners allow water to wick under the washer. Wind can also lift panels attached with loose screws.
The Fix: The washer's rubber gasket should be compressed about 20% against the panel—visible compression but not squeezed out.
Mistake #3: Wrong Fastener Placement
The Problem: Screwing into the rib (raised part) instead of the flat causes leaks—ribs shed water, so holes there catch runoff.
The Fix: Install exposed fasteners in the flat between ribs. Some panel profiles require rib attachment—follow manufacturer instructions exactly.
Mistake #4: Missing or Incorrect Sealant
The Problem: Using silicone instead of manufacturer-specified sealant causes adhesion failures. Missing sealant at overlaps leads to capillary leaks.
The Fix: Use only manufacturer-approved sealant (usually butyl tape or metal-roof-specific caulk). Apply in all specified locations per installation guide.
Mistake #5: Ignoring Thermal Expansion
The Problem: Rigidly fastening long panels causes "oil canning" (wavy appearance) and can eventually pull fasteners through holes.
The Fix: Use floating clips where specified. Don't crank down every fastener to maximum torque. Allow panel ends room to expand.
Mistake #6: Abrasive Cutting Damage
The Problem: Using abrasive wheels throws hot metal sparks that burn through coating, creating rust spots across the roof.
The Fix: Use electric shears, nibblers, or metal-cutting circular saw blades. If you must use a grinder, cover surrounding panels and clean all particles immediately.
Mistake #7: Poor Ventilation Planning
The Problem: Metal roofs need proper ventilation to prevent condensation underneath. Trapped moisture rots decking from below.
The Fix: Ensure adequate intake (soffit) and exhaust (ridge) ventilation. Consider adding a ventilation gap between metal and underlayment in hot climates.
DIY vs. Professional Metal Roof Installation
Should you install your metal roof yourself or hire professionals? Here's an honest comparison:
When DIY Might Work
- Small, simple structure (shed, barn, detached garage)
- Simple roof geometry—no valleys, few penetrations
- Corrugated or exposed-fastener panels (NOT standing seam)
- Experience with similar projects
- Comfortable working at heights with proper fall protection
- Willing to accept that mistakes may void warranty
- Budget for specialized tools (~$500-$1,500)
When to Hire Professionals
- Primary residence (mistakes affect your home)
- Standing seam or snap-lock panels
- Complex roof with valleys, dormers, multiple penetrations
- Two+ stories or steep pitch
- Warranty requires certified installer
- Insurance coverage needed for installation
- Coastal or hurricane zone (code compliance critical)
Cost Comparison
| Item | DIY | Professional |
|---|---|---|
| Materials (2,000 sq ft roof) | $8,000-$16,000 | $8,000-$16,000 |
| Labor | $0 (your time) | $6,000-$12,000 |
| Tool rental/purchase | $500-$1,500 | $0 |
| Waste/mistakes factor | 15-25% extra | 5-10% extra |
| Time investment | 40-80+ hours | 2-4 days |
| Total Estimated Cost | $10,000-$20,000 | $16,000-$32,000 |
The Hidden Costs of DIY
DIY savings look attractive until you factor in: mistakes requiring material replacement, potential injury, voided warranties, difficulty selling a home with unpermitted/uninspected roofing, and time away from work. For most homeowners, professional installation is the better value.
Metal Roof Installation Costs (2025)
Understanding metal roof costs helps you budget accurately and evaluate contractor quotes:
Cost by Roofing Type
| Roof Type | Material Cost/Sq Ft | Installed Cost/Sq Ft | 2,000 Sq Ft Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Corrugated Steel | $3-$6 | $6-$12 | $12,000-$24,000 |
| R-Panel/PBR | $4-$7 | $7-$12 | $14,000-$24,000 |
| Metal Shingles | $4-$8 | $8-$14 | $16,000-$28,000 |
| Standing Seam Steel | $6-$10 | $12-$18 | $24,000-$36,000 |
| Standing Seam Aluminum | $8-$14 | $14-$22 | $28,000-$44,000 |
| Copper | $15-$30 | $25-$45 | $50,000-$90,000 |
Factors That Affect Cost
Increases Cost
- Complex roof geometry (dormers, valleys, hips)
- Steep pitch (7:12 or greater)
- Multiple penetrations (skylights, vents)
- Two-story or higher
- Tear-off of existing roof
- Deck repair/replacement
- Premium coating (PVDF/Kynar)
- Coastal/hurricane zone requirements
Decreases Cost
- Simple gable roof
- Low pitch (4:12 or less)
- Few penetrations
- Single-story, walkable
- Install over existing shingles
- Basic polyester coating
- Off-season installation
- Large, straightforward project
Metal Roof ROI
While metal roofs cost 2-3x more than asphalt shingles upfront, they last 2-3x longer and can reduce cooling costs 25% in hot climates. Most metal roofs pay for themselves within 15-20 years through energy savings and avoided replacement costs.
What's Included in Professional Installation
- Removal and disposal of existing roofing (if applicable)
- Inspection and repair of roof deck
- Installation of underlayment and ice/water shield
- All trim pieces (eave, gable, ridge, valley)
- Flashing at walls, penetrations, and transitions
- Metal panels and fasteners
- Pipe boots and vent covers
- Cleanup and debris removal
- Workmanship warranty (typically 2-10 years)
- Permit acquisition and final inspection
Metal Roof Installation Timeline: What to Expect
Understanding the timeline helps you plan around your metal roof installation:
Pre-Installation (1-4 Weeks Before)
- Week 1-2: Initial consultation, roof measurement, estimate
- Week 2-3: Contract signing, deposit, permit application
- Week 3-4: Material ordering (custom colors may take longer)
- Week 4: Materials arrive, scheduling confirmed
Installation Day-by-Day
Day 1: Tear-Off and Preparation
- Crew arrives, sets up safety equipment and materials
- Remove existing roofing (if applicable)
- Inspect and repair deck as needed
- Install underlayment
- Install drip edge and starter trim
Day 2-3: Panel Installation
- Install metal panels across roof surfaces
- Cut and fit panels around penetrations
- Install valley and transition flashing
- Address complex areas (dormers, skylights)
Day 3-4: Trim and Finish
- Install all trim pieces (gable, ridge)
- Install pipe boots and vent covers
- Apply sealant at all penetrations and transitions
- Touch-up paint on cut edges
- Clean up debris and final inspection
Average Timeline by Roof Size
| Roof Size | Simple Roof | Complex Roof |
|---|---|---|
| Under 1,500 sq ft | 1-2 days | 2-3 days |
| 1,500-2,500 sq ft | 2-3 days | 3-5 days |
| 2,500-4,000 sq ft | 3-4 days | 5-7 days |
| Over 4,000 sq ft | 4-5 days | 7-10+ days |
Weather Delays
Metal roofing can be installed in light rain, but heavy rain, lightning, or high winds will delay work. In Myrtle Beach, we build 1-2 buffer days into schedules during summer storm season. Standing seam installation is more weather-sensitive due to seaming requirements.
Metal Roofing in Coastal South Carolina
Installing metal roofing in Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand requires special considerations for salt air, hurricanes, and local building codes:
Material Selection for Coastal Areas
Recommended Materials for Coastal SC
- Best: Aluminum (naturally corrosion-resistant)
- Good: Galvalume steel with PVDF coating
- Acceptable: Galvanized steel with PVDF coating (limited lifespan near ocean)
- Avoid: Standard galvanized, bare steel, budget coatings
Hurricane/Wind Resistance Requirements
South Carolina coastal building codes require metal roofing to meet specific wind ratings:
- Wind speed rating: Minimum 140 mph in most Horry County areas
- Fastener spacing: Closer spacing in high-wind zones (6-12" at edges)
- Edge metal: Continuous edge metal required, properly fastened
- Clip spacing: Standing seam clips spaced 12" maximum in wind zones
- Seam type: Mechanical-lock seams preferred over snap-lock
Installation in Wind Zones
Improperly installed metal roofing can become a dangerous projectile in hurricanes. Always hire contractors experienced with coastal installations who understand SC wind zone requirements. Ask to see their wind zone certification.
Salt Air Maintenance
Even aluminum roofing benefits from periodic maintenance in coastal areas:
- Annual rinse: Wash roof with clean water to remove salt deposits
- Bi-annual inspection: Check fasteners, sealant, and trim for corrosion
- Immediate repair: Address any scratches or coating damage promptly
- Gutter maintenance: Keep gutters clear to prevent salt water pooling
Insurance Benefits in Coastal SC
Metal roofing often qualifies for insurance discounts in hurricane-prone areas:
- Wind mitigation discount: Metal roofs meeting 140+ mph rating can qualify
- Impact resistance: Some metal roofs are Class 4 impact rated
- Fortified certification: Additional discounts with IBHS Fortified designation
- Typical savings: 10-30% reduction in wind/hurricane coverage premium
How to Choose a Metal Roofing Contractor
Metal roofing installation requires specialized skills different from general roofing. Here's how to find the right contractor:
Must-Have Qualifications
- Metal roofing experience: At least 5 years installing metal, not just "roofing"
- Manufacturer certification: Certified by the panel manufacturer (e.g., Sheffield Metals, McElroy, ATAS)
- Proper licensing: SC residential/commercial roofing license (verify at llr.sc.gov)
- Insurance: Workers' comp and liability coverage (get certificates)
- Local references: Metal roofs they installed 5+ years ago still performing
Questions to Ask Contractors
About Experience
- "How many metal roofs have you installed in the past year?"
- "What percentage of your business is metal vs. shingle?"
- "Can I see photos and contact info for recent metal roof clients?"
- "What manufacturer certifications do you hold?"
About the Project
- "Will you pull permits and schedule inspections?"
- "What underlayment do you use under metal?"
- "How do you handle flashing at walls and penetrations?"
- "What's your approach to ventilation?"
About Warranty
- "What workmanship warranty do you offer?"
- "Does your installation maintain the manufacturer's warranty?"
- "Who do I call if there's a problem in 5 years?"
- "Are you certified for the full manufacturer warranty?"
Red Flags to Watch For
- Pressure to sign immediately or "today-only" pricing
- Requires large deposit before materials are ordered
- No verifiable metal roofing references
- Cannot provide manufacturer certification documentation
- Quote significantly lower than competitors (cutting corners)
- Won't pull permits or says permits aren't needed
- Out-of-state contractor appearing after storms
Get Your Free Metal Roofing Consultation
WeatherShield Roofing is a certified Sheffield Metals and McElroy Metal installer with over 500 metal roof installations in the Myrtle Beach area. We specialize in standing seam aluminum roofing for coastal applications.
Call (843) 877-5539 for a free metal roofing consultation and estimate.
The Cost Comparison: Maintenance vs. Neglect
Without Maintenance
- Roof lifespan: 12-15 years
- Insurance claims often denied
- Emergency repairs cost 3x more
- Property value decreases by 5-10%
- Warranty becomes void
- Total 20-year cost: $35,000+
With Regular Maintenance
- Roof lifespan: 25-30+ years
- Insurance claims approved
- Prevent costly emergencies
- Property value protected
- Full warranty coverage maintained
- Total 20-year cost: $8,000-10,000
Don't Wait Until It's Too Late
Every day you delay costs you money. Get your FREE professional roof inspection today and discover exactly what condition your roof is in.
Emergency? Call our 24/7 hotline: (843) 877-5539
Frequently Asked Questions
About the Author
David Karimi
Metal Roofing Specialist & Installation Expert
David Karimi is WeatherShield Roofing's Metal Roofing Specialist with over 15 years of experience installing standing seam, corrugated, and metal shingle roofing systems across South Carolina's coastal region. A certified GAF Master Elite and Sheffield Metals installer, David has completed over 500 metal roof installations.
The Bottom Line: Your Roof, Your Choice
Every day you wait is another day closer to that emergency call no homeowner wants to make. The statistics are clear: 80% of roofs fail prematurely, and 61% of homeowners can't afford the emergency repairs that follow.
What You Get with Weather Shield Roofing:
Don't Wait Until It's Too Late
Join thousands of smart Myrtle Beach homeowners who protect their investment with regular maintenance.
Emergency? Call our 24/7 hotline: (843) 877-5539
