Hurricane Roof Preparation Checklist for Myrtle Beach Homeowners (2026)

SC Hurricane Season Timeline

The Atlantic hurricane season officially runs from June 1 through November 30 — a full six months. But not all six months carry equal risk for the Myrtle Beach area. Understanding the timeline helps you plan your preparation and know when to be on highest alert.

The most destructive hurricanes to impact the South Carolina coast have historically struck in September and October. Hurricane Hugo made landfall near Charleston on September 21, 1989. Hurricane Florence dumped catastrophic rainfall across the Carolinas in September 2018. Hurricane Matthew tracked along the SC coast in October 2016. The pattern is consistent: the highest risk window is mid-August through mid-October when Atlantic ocean temperatures peak and the atmospheric conditions most favor strong tropical development.

For Myrtle Beach homeowners, this means your roof preparation should be complete by June 1, with a secondary check in early August before the peak danger window opens. If a summer thunderstorm or tropical system in June or July caused any damage, repair it immediately — do not let minor damage from an early-season event become catastrophic failure during a September hurricane.

Pre-Season Roof Inspection: 30 Days Before Hurricane Season

The single most important thing you can do for your roof before hurricane season is get it inspected by a licensed roofing contractor at least 30 days before June 1. That means scheduling in late April or early May. The 30-day window is not arbitrary — it accounts for the time needed to identify problems, get a repair quote, order materials if needed, and schedule and complete the work before the season starts.

Here is the complete pre-season inspection checklist. A professional contractor covers all of these in a single visit. If you are inspecting from the ground yourself, you can catch some of these issues, but not all — many require getting on the roof and into the attic.

Roof Covering Inspection

• Shingle condition: Look for missing, cracked, curling, cupping, or lifted shingles. Each of these is a wind-catch point where hurricane winds will peel the shingle off and then the ones around it. A single missing shingle is a starting point for a cascade failure in 100+ mph winds.
• Granule loss: Check gutters for granule accumulation. Excessive granule loss means the shingle surface is deteriorating and has less impact resistance — exactly when you need impact resistance most.
• Seal strip adhesion: Asphalt shingles have a thermally activated seal strip that bonds each shingle to the one below it. Over time, this seal can fail, leaving shingle tabs unsealed and vulnerable to wind uplift. A contractor checks this by gently lifting shingle edges — if they lift easily, the seal has failed and those shingles will come off in a hurricane.
• Metal roof panels: For standing seam metal roofs, inspect for loose clips, separated seams, and corrosion at fastener points. Check that all panel ends are properly secured and no panels have shifted from thermal movement.

Flashing Inspection

• Chimney flashing: Check for gaps between flashing and chimney masonry, lifted step flashing, and deteriorated sealant. Wind-driven rain during a hurricane does not fall straight down — it drives horizontally and finds every gap in your flashing.
• Vent pipe flashing: Rubber boots around plumbing vent pipes crack and deteriorate in the South Carolina sun. A cracked boot that barely leaks during normal rain becomes a significant water entry point during hurricane-force rain.
• Wall-to-roof transitions: Where a lower roof meets a wall, the step flashing and kick-out flashing must be intact and properly sealed. These transitions are among the most common points of failure during hurricanes.
• Drip edge: Verify that drip edge is properly attached along all eaves and rakes. Loose or missing drip edge allows wind to get under the roof edge and peel up shingles from the perimeter — the most common starting point for wind damage.

Gutter and Drainage Inspection

• Clear all gutters and downspouts: Clogged gutters during a hurricane mean water backs up under the roof edge, saturates the fascia, and can enter the soffit and attic space. Clean every gutter run and flush every downspout to confirm they drain freely.
• Gutter attachment: Verify that gutters are firmly attached to the fascia with no sagging sections. A gutter that pulls away during a hurricane becomes debris and also exposes the fascia and roof edge to direct rain penetration.
• Downspout extensions: Make sure downspouts direct water at least 4 feet away from the foundation. During a hurricane, the volume of water hitting your roof can exceed normal rainfall by 5 to 10 times — your drainage system needs to handle the volume.

Attic and Ventilation Inspection

• Attic from inside: Go into the attic during daylight and look for daylight coming through the roof boards. Any visible light means there is a gap that will admit wind-driven rain during a hurricane. Also check for water stains — evidence of past leaks that may recur under hurricane conditions.
• Ridge vent security: Confirm that the ridge vent is securely fastened with no lifted sections. In the wind-borne debris region, ridge vents should have internal baffles or screens that block debris and wind-driven rain from entering the attic while still allowing ventilation.
• Soffit vent protection: Soffit vents are a common entry point for wind-driven rain during hurricanes. Verify all soffit vents have intact screens and are securely mounted. In high-wind zones, consider upgrading to wind-driven rain resistant vent products.
• Hurricane straps and clips: While in the attic, check that metal hurricane straps or clips connect every rafter or truss to the top wall plate. This is the most critical structural connection for hurricane resistance. If straps are missing, corroded, or improperly installed, this is a priority repair — without them, the entire roof structure can separate from the walls during a major hurricane.

Trees and Surroundings

• Trim overhanging branches: Any tree branch that overhangs your roof or is within striking distance should be trimmed back. During a hurricane, branches become battering rams. The time to remove them is May, not the day before the storm when every tree service is booked solid.
• Dead trees and limbs: Dead trees and dead limbs on living trees near your home should be removed entirely. Dead wood is brittle and breaks off at much lower wind speeds than living wood.
• Yard inventory: Identify every loose item in your yard — patio furniture, planters, decorations, grills, trash cans, children's play equipment. In hurricane-force winds, each of these becomes a projectile aimed at your roof. Know what needs to be secured or stored before a storm approaches.

Photograph Everything for Insurance

This step is the one homeowners skip most often and regret most after a storm. Before hurricane season, take photographs and video of your roof from every angle — ground-level shots of all four sides, close-ups of any areas that were recently repaired, and photos of the attic showing the underside of the roof deck and the hurricane strap connections. Date-stamp everything and store the files in cloud storage, not just on your phone. If your roof is damaged during a hurricane, this pre-storm documentation is your strongest evidence for the insurance claim. It proves the condition of the roof before the storm and establishes that any damage was caused by the hurricane, not by pre-existing neglect.

Emergency Prep 48 Hours Before the Storm

When a hurricane or tropical storm is tracking toward Myrtle Beach with a 48-hour arrival window, the time for routine maintenance and inspections is over. This phase is about securing what you have and preparing for the possibility of damage.

Tarp and Emergency Supplies

• Buy tarps now, not later: Purchase heavy-duty tarps (minimum 10 mil thickness, blue poly-weave recommended) sized to cover at least a quarter of your roof. These are for after-storm emergency tarping, not for pre-storm use. By the time the storm passes and damage is discovered, every hardware store in the area will be sold out. Buy tarps, a staple gun with stainless steel staples, 2x4 lumber for weight bars, and nylon rope before the rush.
• Plywood for skylights: If your roof has skylights, pre-cut plywood panels to cover each one. Skylights are among the first things to fail under impact from wind-borne debris. A broken skylight during a hurricane allows wind and rain directly into the interior, causing catastrophic water damage. Secure the plywood with screws, not nails — screws hold under vibration from wind gusts.
• Bucket and plastic sheeting: Have buckets and heavy plastic sheeting ready inside the house. If a leak develops during the storm, you can catch water and protect flooring and furniture before it is safe to go outside.

Document with Video

Take a complete video walkthrough of your property — exterior and interior — within 48 hours of the storm. Walk the entire perimeter filming the roof, siding, windows, and yard. Inside, film each room showing ceilings, walls, and flooring. Narrate the date and time as you film. Upload immediately to cloud storage. This is your final pre-storm condition record. Combined with your pre-season photos, it creates an airtight documentation package for your insurance claim. Adjusters process claims faster and with fewer disputes when homeowners provide clear before-and-after documentation.

Review Your Insurance Policy

• Know your deductible: In coastal South Carolina, many wind insurance policies have a percentage-based deductible — typically 1 to 5 percent of the dwelling coverage amount, not a flat dollar figure. On a $300,000 home, a 2 percent wind deductible means you pay the first $6,000 out of pocket. Know this number before the storm.
• Confirm coverage type: Is your roof covered at replacement cost value (RCV) or actual cash value (ACV)? The difference matters significantly — an ACV policy depreciates the roof based on age, so a 15-year-old roof may only be covered for a fraction of the replacement cost.
• Verify flood insurance separately: Wind insurance and flood insurance are separate policies. If you are in a FEMA flood zone, confirm your flood policy is active and current. Storm surge damage is flood, not wind — many homeowners learn this distinction the hard way after a hurricane.
• Save your policy number and agent contact: Write down your insurance policy number, agent name, and claims phone number on paper and keep it in a waterproof bag. After a major hurricane, power and cell service may be out for days — having this information on paper prevents you from being unable to file a claim because your phone is dead.

Secure Loose Items

Move all outdoor furniture, planters, grills, decorations, garbage cans, and anything not permanently anchored into your garage or inside the house. If an item cannot be moved indoors, strap it down with ratchet straps attached to ground anchors. In hurricane-force winds, a patio chair becomes a 30 mph projectile. A propane grill becomes a wrecking ball. Every unsecured item in your yard is a threat to your roof, your neighbor's roof, and anyone caught outside. Secure everything — no exceptions.

During the Storm

Once hurricane-force winds arrive, there is nothing you can do for your roof. This section is short because the correct answer to almost every question is: stay inside and wait.

What to Do If You Notice a Leak

• Contain the water: Place buckets, bins, or trash cans under active leaks. Lay plastic sheeting or old towels around the collection area to protect flooring.
• Document it: Take photos and video of the leak as it happens — showing water entering through the ceiling or walls. This real-time documentation is powerful evidence for your insurance claim because it shows the damage was caused by the active storm.
• Move valuables: If water is entering a room, move electronics, furniture, and personal valuables away from the leak area. Insurance covers storm damage but can reduce payouts if you failed to mitigate damage you could have prevented.
• Do not try to patch from inside the attic: Climbing into the attic during a hurricane is dangerous — you could fall through a water-weakened ceiling, and the wind forces in the attic space are extreme if any openings have been compromised. Wait for the storm to pass.

Watch for Structural Warning Signs

During the storm, listen and watch for signs of serious structural problems: loud cracking or popping sounds from the attic or ceiling could indicate roof framing failure or hurricane strap separation. Ceiling drywall sagging or bulging means water is pooling above. Doors that suddenly will not close or windows that crack under pressure can indicate the building envelope has been compromised by wind entering through a roof breach. If you see signs of imminent structural failure — sagging ceiling, large crack appearing in a wall — move to the most interior room on the lowest floor and away from any exterior walls or the ceiling.

After the Storm: 24-Hour Inspection Checklist

Once the storm has passed and conditions are safe — no active wind, no standing water around the home, no downed power lines nearby — it is time to assess your roof. But the first inspection is from the ground only.

Ground-Level Inspection (Do This First)

Using binoculars if possible, walk the perimeter of your home and look for these indicators of roof damage:

• Missing shingles or exposed areas: Look for visible patches where the roof covering is gone, exposing the underlayment (usually black or gray felt) or the bare roof deck (plywood).
• Shingles on the ground: Walk your yard and your neighbor's yard (with permission). Shingles on the ground mean shingles off your roof. Count them — the number helps estimate the scope of damage.
• Damaged or missing flashing: Check the visible portions of chimney flashing, valley flashing, and any wall-to-roof transitions you can see from the ground.
• Gutters and downspouts: Look for detached gutter sections, bent downspouts, or gutters pulled away from the fascia.
• Ridge vent damage: From the ground, check if the ridge vent is still in place along the full roof peak. A displaced ridge vent is a direct opening into the attic.
• Tree debris on the roof: Note any branches or limbs that landed on the roof. Do not attempt to remove heavy debris yourself — it may be the only thing preventing a larger hole, and removing it could worsen the damage.
• Sagging sections: Any visible sag in the roof line indicates structural damage — either broken rafters, water-saturated decking, or truss failure. This is serious and requires a professional before anyone gets on the roof.

When to Get on the Roof

Do not get on the roof yourself after a hurricane unless you are experienced, have proper safety equipment, and have confirmed from the ground that the roof structure is intact with no visible sagging. Even then, the risks are significant — wet roof surfaces are slippery, hidden damage can make sections unstable, and downed power lines may not be visible. The safest approach is to call a licensed roofing contractor for a professional post-storm inspection. A contractor has the equipment, insurance, and experience to safely assess the roof and document damage for your claim.

Document Before Any Repairs

The only exception to the no-repairs-before-documentation rule is emergency tarping to prevent further water damage. If rain is continuing or forecast and your roof has open breaches, tarp those areas to prevent additional interior damage. Photograph the damage before tarping, then photograph the tarp in place. Your insurance policy requires you to mitigate further damage — tarping satisfies that requirement while preserving the evidence of the original storm damage beneath the tarp.

Filing Your Insurance Claim Within 72 Hours

After a hurricane, file your insurance claim as quickly as possible — ideally within 72 hours of the storm passing. Early filers get adjuster visits sooner, and the earlier the adjuster sees the damage, the clearer the connection between the storm and the damage. Waiting weeks or months to file allows the insurance company to question whether the damage was really caused by the hurricane.

Insurance Claim Steps

1. Call your insurance company or agent: Report the damage and request a claim number. Be prepared with your policy number, the date of loss (the date of the storm), and a general description of the damage.
2. Submit your documentation: Provide the pre-storm and post-storm photos and videos you took. The contrast between the two is your strongest evidence.
3. Get a professional roof inspection: Contact a licensed roofing contractor for a full storm damage inspection and written report. This report documents every point of damage with photographs and is submitted to the insurance company to support the claim.
4. Meet the adjuster: When the insurance adjuster visits, have your contractor present if possible. A knowledgeable contractor can point out damage the adjuster may miss and provide technical context for the repair scope.
5. Review the estimate carefully: Compare the adjuster's estimate to your contractor's estimate. If the adjuster's number is significantly lower, your contractor can provide a detailed supplement with line-item documentation of why the repair costs more than the initial estimate.
6. Do not sign away rights: Do not sign any agreement that prevents you from disputing the claim amount. In South Carolina, you have the right to a re-inspection and the right to an independent appraisal if you disagree with the insurance company's assessment.

Cost of Pre-Season Inspection vs Storm Damage

A professional pre-hurricane season roof inspection in Myrtle Beach costs between $100 and $300 depending on the size and complexity of the roof. Some contractors — including WeatherShield — offer free inspections. Even at $300, it is the single highest return-on-investment item in your entire home maintenance budget.

The math is straightforward. A $200 inspection that catches a $1,000 flashing repair prevents a $12,000 flashing failure during a hurricane that leads to $8,000 in interior water damage — a total of $20,000 in losses that a $1,200 pre-season investment would have prevented entirely.

The cost disparity gets worse when you factor in the post-hurricane market. After a major hurricane hits Myrtle Beach, roofing materials become scarce and prices spike. Contractors are booked for months. The same repair that costs $1,000 in May costs $2,500 in September — if you can get a contractor to show up at all. The homeowners who prepared in the off-season get their roofs fixed quickly and at normal prices. The homeowners who did not are waiting 3 to 6 months for a contractor while living under a tarp.

There is also the insurance factor. If an adjuster determines that storm damage was made worse by pre-existing neglect — a condition the homeowner knew about or should have known about — the claim payment can be reduced. A pre-season inspection report showing your roof was in good condition before the storm eliminates that argument entirely. The inspection report becomes a legal document supporting the full value of your claim.

FORTIFIED Roof Program

The IBHS FORTIFIED Roof program is an enhanced building standard developed by the Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety. It goes beyond minimum South Carolina building code requirements to create a roof system that is significantly more resistant to hurricane damage. For Myrtle Beach homeowners preparing for hurricane season, a FORTIFIED roof represents the highest level of protection available.

What Makes a Roof FORTIFIED

• Sealed roof deck: Peel-and-stick self-adhering underlayment covers the entire roof deck, not just the eaves. If shingles are lost during a hurricane, the sealed deck prevents water intrusion — the single most important upgrade for hurricane protection.
• Enhanced nail pattern: A minimum of 6 nails per shingle with specific placement requirements that exceed the manufacturer's standard pattern.
• Drip edge on all eaves and rakes: Metal drip edge is mechanically fastened (not just nailed) along every roof edge, preventing wind from lifting the roof covering at the perimeter.
• Protected attic openings: Every ventilation opening — ridge vents, soffit vents, gable vents — is equipped with wind-driven rain resistant products that block water and debris while maintaining airflow.
• Starter strip at all eaves and rakes: Factory-applied adhesive starter strips provide the initial wind-resistance layer at the most vulnerable edges.

Insurance Benefits of FORTIFIED

In South Carolina, a FORTIFIED roof designation can qualify for wind insurance premium discounts of 15 to 30 percent or more through participating carriers. On a coastal property where wind insurance premiums run $3,000 to $8,000 per year, a 25 percent discount saves $750 to $2,000 annually. Over the life of a 25-year roof, that is $18,750 to $50,000 in insurance savings — far exceeding the additional cost of FORTIFIED compliance, which typically adds $1,000 to $3,000 to a standard roof replacement.

Beyond the premium savings, FORTIFIED homes suffer dramatically less damage during hurricanes. After Hurricane Michael in 2018, IBHS field teams documented that FORTIFIED homes sustained significantly less damage than comparable non-FORTIFIED homes in the same neighborhoods. The sealed roof deck was the differentiator — even when shingles were lost, the sealed deck prevented water intrusion, protecting the entire interior of the home. For Myrtle Beach homeowners who are reroofing anyway, the incremental cost to meet FORTIFIED standards is one of the best investments available for both hurricane protection and insurance savings.

David Karimi / WeatherShield Seasonal Inspection Service

Hurricane preparation is not a one-time event — it is a seasonal discipline. Every year, the same season comes. Every year, the homeowners who prepared early come through it better than the ones who did not. WeatherShield Roofing LLC provides pre-hurricane season roof inspections specifically designed for coastal South Carolina homeowners who understand this.

I do not wait until a storm is in the forecast to start thinking about your roof. The inspection happens in April or May — before the season, before the rush, and before every roofing contractor in the area is booked solid with emergency repairs. If the inspection finds issues, we have time to fix them properly, at normal prices, on a schedule that works for you.

If the inspection finds nothing wrong, you get the report as proof of condition for your insurance records and the confidence that your roof is ready for whatever the season brings. Either way, you win.

I serve Myrtle Beach, Surfside Beach, Garden City, Pawleys Island, Murrells Inlet, Conway, Little River, North Myrtle Beach, and the entire Grand Strand area. If your home is in Horry County or Georgetown County, I can get to it.

Frequently Asked Questions